Captivated Me

Four weeks into this season of living and working in Saipan, and I still cannot believe I am here. The sun rises every morning over the hills in my backyard, and sets every night over the lagoon one block from this third floor walk-up. The bright, fresh, emerald foliage blanketing the mountains somehow looks even more viridescent after a rainfall. And as for the fierce shades of blue in the ocean – I cannot find words to describe the spectrum. The pediatric group and staff I get to work with here are kind, creative, caring, diverse, and gracious, as are the people I get to meet day to day in the community. I’m thankful for these colors, this rhythm, this diversity, this incredibly unique experience. I am learning and inspired in just about every moment, every encounter.

April has been a beautiful month here. The adage about April showers rings true, as there have been some impressive downpours, but the stormy sky is a stunning spectacle unto itself, and the sunshine is never far behind. Some highlights from the month – so far, and to come – include:

• Saipan’s half-marathon, 10K, and 5K took place two weekends ago and were a smashing success. There is normally a full-marathon as well, but this is not yet back up to speed since COVID.
• A lively local farmer’s market takes place seaside every Saturday morning, with local artisan displays and fresh plants and produce harvested by the island’s farmers, all with the backdrop of popular cover music set to a tropical beat.
• Holy Week included a Good Friday community pilgrimage on foot to the top of Mount Tapochau, with certain members of the community dragging a large, rugged, wooden cross which was erected at the peak of the mountain. Many early sunrise services, brunches, Easter egg hunts, and other celebrations took place at the various parishes and churches on the island on Resurrection Sunday.
• The Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands is gearing up for its special Flame Tree Art Festival which will take place later this month. This is a weekend-long gala celebrating local crafts, dance, food, music, and other forms of art. And it is apparently lit.
• Hotel pool parties, shoreline sports activities and grill-outs, and beachside birthday parties are the norm on any given weekend – People in Saipan love to embrace any chance for celebration, time together as a community, and time in the gorgeous outdoors.

As for me, this month has brought the ability to engage to some degree or another in all of the above. There is a remarkable balance between work, rest, community, and adventure here, unlike any I have ever experienced before. Balance is hard to come by in any profession, in life in general, and I know it is something my soul has craved for years – since the early days of my medical training. My heart is overwhelmed with so much gratitude for this chance to live in such an equilibrium, and hopefully find ways to implement it in whatever seasons of life lie ahead.

Some fun happenings from the last week or two:

Flower Crown Making: I went with a small group for a flower crown lesson the Saturday before Easter. We used Santa Anas, plumeria (the state flower of CNMI), Hawaiian ginger, palm seeds, ferns, birds of paradise, bougainvillea, and stars of India (native to Thailand) in our crowns, and enjoyed the challenge of a new craft! We also enjoyed learning about a form of culinary seasoning called ‘hing mui’, a sour plum powder that tastes amazing sprinkled on just about any kind of fruit.

Banzai Cliff to Cowtown: This relatively flat hike was a hot one through dense jungle, with various ruins and rusting military vehicles along the way. I also managed to walk face-first into a spiderweb the size of a watermelon and nearly got pooped on by a seabird while I navigated through the brush. But in the end, it was all more than worth it! The views were inimitable, and the waves were so powerful they made the earth underneath my feet tremble as they crashed against the shore.

Ladder Beach: This rugged, secluded space was perfect for a post-call morning of ukulele practice, wave-watching, and cave exploration. It is a local favorite, boasting beautiful views of Saipan’s neighbor, Tinian, in the distance, and multiple cavernous nooks and crannies to weave into and out of. Each beach on the island is different from the next, but the peace and serenity they share are universal.

Mariana Lighthouse: This lighthouse is one of the few pre-war structures that has been successfully preserved with time. Initially constructed during a season of Japanese rule in Saipan, it served as a beacon for ships at harbor that needed to transport cargo along the rocky, reef-laden shores and channels. World War II left the building in disrepair, but it has since been repurposed into a bustling cafe, restaurant, and live music space, offering remarkable views of downtown Garapan, the western lagoon, and the horizon beyond.

Sunsets: Sunsets are a community festivity here in Saipan. Every day between 5:30 and 6:00 PM, countless local families, neighbors, and friend groups flock to the sea for the show. It has been such a treat to enjoy some of these in quiet reflection – journaling, snorkeling, or listening to an audiobook – and some with fun and interesting friends – including two birthday parties this week and one gathering to celebrate finishing my first week on service.

I remain so so so humbled by the support and encouragement coming from afar. For friends and family who do not know, Saipan is fifteen hours ahead of Central time (I come to you from the future 🙂 ), and I now have a local Saipan phone number so can only feasibly keep in touch via WhatsApp (with my US number) and other web-based messaging for text, talk and video. I would love to connect with you; please reach out if you would like, and I am so sorry if I have not returned your texts or calls to my US number!

Thank you for reading. 🤍 Have a wonderful week!