Captivated Me

captivate : v. to attract and hold the attention or interest of, as by beauty or excellence; enchant.

Category: Travel

Charmed in the Land of Enchantment.

“If you ever go to New Mexico,” O’Keeffe told a friend, ‘it will itch you for the rest of your life.”

Nestled in the Southwest is a hidden gem of a state, one that does not get nearly enough recognition for its beauty, diversity, and splendor. I spent two weeks in New Mexico this fall and found myself delighting in the sweetest spectrum of vistas and experiences – From charming, rustic mountain towns to fine, snow-white sand deserts. From vibrant, rosy sunsets to peaceful, heart- and body-warming hot springs. From eclectic, creative communities to sun-drenched, flower-lined hiking trails. From rich foods livened with green chili to charming pueblo-style coffee shops. And from storied, ancient relics and monuments to scarlet, flat-topped mesas. If this national treasure is not high up on your bucket list of places to visit, I’d humbly but whole-heartedly recommend rearranging your list. 🙂

A list of excursions to consider:

White Sands National Park: With gorgeous acreage in the Tularosa Basin, this expanse of sand dunes is composed of a fine powder from gypsum crystals.

Sandia Mountains: A stunning, standalone stretch of mountainland on the outskirts of Albuquerque, known for its rosy hue at sunset. Take the tram toward the peak, or hike one of a plethora of trails for an awe-inspiring experience.

Santa Fe: The capital of New Mexico, situated about one hour’s drive north of Albuquerque. Meander the galleries, tour the sacred chapels (e.g. Loretta Chapel, home of the legendary ‘Miraculous Stair’), enjoy live music along the streets, and cozy up in one of many fine restaurants (check out Sazon and Tia Sophia’s) in the town. The artistic, historic atmosphere is palpable, and an air of whimsy and relaxed vibrance will go with you as you walk about.

Taos: At the foot of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, this charming town in northern New Mexico feels like an international escape. It is both peaceful and vibrant, quaint and eclectic, and offers easy access to the nearby Taos Ski Valley where year-round recreation is a rule. Hike Wheeler Peak to reach the highest natural point in the state at 13,167 feet (but bring good water and sustenance, and add micro spikes if hiking in the snowy season!).

El Santuario de Chimayo: This blessed and beautiful adobe chapel is a National Historic Landmark, known to be a site of pilgrimage especially around Holy Week, and thought to house a healing, holy dirt within. The grounds are serene and draw you into peaceful contemplation as you walk along the complex. Another chapel, Santo Nino de Atocha, is a minute’s walk away, and is home to a small prayer room lined with the shoes of infants and children, resembling prayer requests and answered prayers.

Jemez Mountains: The Jemez region is so named in honor of the native Puebloan population to whom the land belongs. Replete with beautiful views of both red rock and mountain, deep gorges, quiet winding roads, countless hiking trails, and hidden hot springs, this area is a cannot-miss for the hiking and nature enthusiast.

Old Albuquerque Historic District: Spend a morning or afternoon walking the museums, galleries, boutiques, and San Felipe de Neri church in this beautifully preserved plaza. You’ll have your pick of multiple restaurants and cuisines here along the square, or you can hop over to the nearby Sawmill Market with a great variety of eats, beats, and beverages.

Great River Bluffs State Park: When skies are grey.

“You are my sunshine, my only sunshine. You make me happy when skies are grey. You’ll never know dear how much I love you. Please don’t take my sunshine away.”

My grandfather and superhero left for heaven yesterday, and the past couple of days have been overshadowed with grief as we cared for him on a short course of hospice. In the hours since, part of my own arsenal of coping and healing involves getting outside in nature, finding peaceful spaces to cry and wrestle and reminisce and remember grandpa joyfully. And my goodness, Great River Bluffs State Park was the perfect place to do this.

Multiple out-and-back trails radiate out from the center of this park, each ending at a lookout over the Mississippi River Valley. I start by making my way the South Overlook, where I’m met by a gentle rainfall which serves as the accompaniment to a visual array of new green leaves on the trees that line the path. The steep bluffs to my right give way to breathtaking views of the river, which reflects the grey color of the clouds above. I sit at the overlook and observe: a ladybug clinging to a leaf, the grey-blue hills in the distance, the etchings on the wood rail that guards the end of the path. I sing one of the songs grandpa used to sing so often: “You are my sunshine”.

The North Overlook is a short 0.2 mile stroll away from the south, and I go there next. This offers a different perspective of the peaceful valley, and I spend some time here as well, admiring the springtime views. The clouds look as if they are breaking a little bit, and small bursts of sunshine cut through like smiles or winks from heaven.

From here, I make my way toward King’s Bluff Overlook, the Hiking Club Trail for this park. I am led down a row of pines, through a winding woods – briefly encountering two sweet new friends named Don and Karen who are also hiking this trail along the way – and up a tilted prairie land to a bench where I sit and eat my packed lunch. Increasingly so, the sky is evolving away from the overcast disposition of the morning to one of warm, radiant sun.

I hike back to my car and then drive a short distance through the park to the eastern corner, where the campsites are. From here, there are short trails to two different lookouts – the East Overlook and the Orchard Overlook. The former is where I spend most of my time – It is here that nature really starts showing off. Blue skies are coming, but the clouds are not yet gone, and the reflections over the river are mesmerizing. Again, grandpa’s song wells up in my soul, and I sing it out loud. The birds seem to be singing along as well. Flowers reach upward toward the sky. A fishing boat chugs its way slowly down the river. Yet another favorite song of grandpa’s comes to mind: “It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood, a beautiful day for a neighbor. Would you be mine?”

My final trail for the day leads to the latter lookout, Orchard Overlook. The path leads south, and I notice the sun now pouring happily through the woods to my right. At trail’s end, there is a vista of rolling bluffs that are drenched in sunlight at this time of day, also coming to life with springtime. I meander here a little while, watching birds swoop through the valley, noticing the flowering trees, and enjoying the now bright blue skies.

I’m learning more and more as I hike these state and national parks, that hiking is not only incredibly fun, but God can use it for our healing. And I’m grateful for sweet spaces like this that make whatever the hiker needs in that moment – whether it be peace, adventure, solitude, healing, space, delight, or any other number of heart-deep needs – possible.

St. Croix Scenic Byway: Big Joy in Simple Moments

Today In Brief: Beginning in downtown Stillwater, caramel latte in hand, I strolled the iconic green bridge that spans the St. Croix. The sun shone brightly, the most perfect clouds glided slowly overhead, a sweet elderly couple walked their two dogs, two children laughed as they threw rocks into the river, and pigeons cooed soothing songs from the bridge’s beams. I made my way to Main Street where I climbed the stairs to my favorite lookout over the city, noting I had been here just three months prior when the river was iced to a standstill. The stairs were slathered with chalky encouragement, which brought smiles from all of us scaling them. “Be brave.” “Bring your own sunshine.” “Say yes to adventure.” Throughout the walk, I notice in big and small ways: The city is awakening with springtime.

A short three miles south of Stillwater lies Bayport, home of Mabel’s Ice Cream and Lakeside Park. At the latter, I step out of my car to enjoy the river vistas. A grandfather and his young grandson practice roller-blading along the park path, birds fly between the trees that line the winding trail, water laps quietly against the rocky riverbank. I pause, breathe, delight in more sights and sounds of spring, then continue along the byway.

Continuing to dot my way down the charming towns that line the river, I pass quiet Lakeland, stop briefly at Lake St. Croix Beach, and continue past cozy Afton, ending at a bridge that traverses the river into Prescott, WI. I park the car and walk the streets, contemplating food. Home of Muddy Waters, Lucille’s, and other homey restaurants, I end up getting a panini to go and situating myself at the nearby Point Douglas Beach. From here, you can see where the St. Croix and Mississippi join forces and continue southward. I eat slowly, sip some iced tea, and daydream. Grateful for these sweet, simple moments. Heart filled to the brim.

Cayo Icacos: Seas the Day

Today In Brief: After a morning of light rain showers and rainbows arching over the island, skies cleared and gave way to the most astounding array of teals and greens and blues. Sail Getaways conducted a fun, COVID-safe power boat tour to Isla Palominos for snorkeling along a shallow reef, then re-routed to the beautiful, uninhabited island of Icacos where the deserted white sand beach stretched for days. Spent over an hour dancing with the waves and marveling at the colors. My heart is full.

El Yunque Rainforest: Magic in the Tropics

Today In Brief: The day started with rain showers as I drove along back roads to a private entrance into El Yunque rainforest. A local tour guide led the way along a trail through the jungle, scaling vertical clay walls, and identifying unique flora and fauna (my favorite being the fascinating mimosa sensitiva, a delicate green-leafed plant that shies away when touched). Ending at a beautiful landscape filled with rock-laden cliffs and boulders showered by waterfalls, the cliff-jumping and water-sliding and rope-swinging began.

After a morning of adventure, I ate my packed lunch and drove toward the main entrance to the forest. As I hopped out of the car at Mount Britton Trailhead, a rainstorm began. The next three hours consisted of a hike in the cleansing, pouring, drenching rain – serenaded by the coquis and in awe of the green palms, bright flowers, and grey clouds racing over the mountain peaks. I ended the day with a swim in Juan Diego Falls, mesmerized by the magic of this beautiful jungle, and grateful beyond words for this day exploring it.

La Isla del Encanto: From Seven Seas Beach to Playa Escondida

Today In Brief: A short mile-long hike leads from Seven Seas Beach to Playa Colora to Playa Escondida, with birds and frogs singing around you and wind-bent trees rustling over you. The fine white sands of Escondida give way to the calm, shallow, aqua sea, which was perfect for swimming and watching for sea-life for hours on end with the peaks of the rainforest in view. This simple but breath-taking trek is 100% worth your while should you find yourself along the northeast coast of Puerto Rico.

Angel’s Landing: One Step at a Time.

What frightens you?

I woke up this morning to watch the sun rise over the mountains. The river on the east side of this idyllic bed and breakfast property in Springdale, Utah was coursing with life as the sky changed from blue to orange to yellow, and my heart filled with the anticipation of another sweet day in nature. Coffee in hand, I planned my final day of hiking in Zion National Park. As I perused the various trail options on the park map, I had every active intention of avoiding Angel’s Landing, the one hike that struck the strongest chord of fear in my body. I’ll do two or three lighter treks today, I thought. In my heart of hearts, I admit to myself that I have doubts about if I’d be physically or emotionally able to complete a hike like the Angel. As I continue to make a tentative itinerary for the day, though, curiosity beckons. I fill my pack with water, food, and my emergency kit, then hop in the car for the short drive toward the park.

On the way, I quickly visit the local gear company to return the dry suit I had rented to hike the Narrows yesterday. As I visit with the man helping me with the gear, I casually ask him what he thinks of Angel’s Landing. “What do you know about exposure in hiking and climbing?”, he asks. I share my simpleton understanding – that it’s when you have a lot of air around you and the potential for a steep fall. He validates that response and expands on it, noting that many of the hikes and summits in this striking park (and elsewhere, for that matter) are more taxing psychologically than physically. He shares that Angel’s Landing is one of them, largely because of the exposure. You do have a lot of air around you, you have sharp drop-offs on either side of you, and the fear of mis-stepping or falling or any number of dangerous outcomes can overpower the focus it takes to simply take the next step in front of you. “If you can navigate the fear, and have the physical capacity, you can complete the hike for sure.”

I thank the man for his explanation, then leap back into my car as curiosity grows still further. Maybe I’ll just go see if there is a parking spot at the trailhead, I think. I don’t actually have to hike it; I just want to see. Hoping that maybe the parking area – which serves as one point from which multiple trails radiate – might be full, I approach it and notice one final space available, situated as close to the trailhead as can be. I pull in, turn the car off, and get out of the car, gazing at the face of the beautiful rock formation, and I get nauseated with fear at the thought of trying to climb it. Fascination and awe lead me on, and I feel drawn to the challenge. Surprising myself, I start up the trail toward the first switchbacks, enjoying the views of the aqua Virgin River as it weaves through the canyon with towers of layered rock hugging it on either side.

We are not strangers to fear. We all experience it in one way or another. In some ways, fear is a survival mechanism, a sort of panic-button that our body activates when it feels it is in danger. It heightens your awareness to the situation in front of you. If you see a bear, you want your sympathetic nervous system to awaken; you want to be aware and prepare for what to do next. If you hike to 1,500 feet of elevation along the spine of a wild cliff, you want to be aware of the tree roots and slanted rocks that line your path and to navigate them accordingly. Responding to fear from a healthy, regulated, compassionate place allows us to respect the gravity of a situation, leverage the fear and awe that accompany that situation, and make sound decisions under duress.

On the other hand, there are triggers and traumatic experiences in our lives that can become so engrained, so codified into our nervous system’s fear response that our body reacts with paralysis, anger, hypervigilance, or other secondary reactions. We freeze, our feet glued to the ground, unwilling and unable to move forward, move backward, or move at all. We get caught in reinforced, hard-wired, fearful loops. And so often, it is not our fault. Situations and histories of abuse, abandonment, loss, grief, and other trauma – if we don’t learn how to move through them well – can render us stuck.

In these stuck places, we might shame or criticize ourselves for being afraid, or shun the fear, or try to convince and rationalize our way out of it. We might take onto our own shoulders the shame that others pass to us when they find our fear and trauma to be inconvenient. We might train ourselves to think or dream small so as not to offend others or get our hopes up (in case we fail). If we’re not careful, it can be easier to give our precious attention to the risks and reasons not to do something, rather than balancing our perspective with the benefits. And in the end, in choosing any of these avenues, we dampen, stagnate, and wither rather than grow and flourish.

I follow the paved portion of the path, reflecting on fear. Curiously, I ask myself: What frightens you right now? I give myself an honest answer: Heights, falling, failing…exposure. At a certain point along this trail, much higher up in elevation than where I am right now, there will be stretches where I am completely exposed to the elements – every gust of wind, every loose rock or root ready to trip me if I step the wrong way – and there will be nothing to catch me. I am dizzy with vertigo as I hike another switchback, and I pause to let my body adjust to the height.

How do we move through our fear? I think back to a season in my life that was wrought with fear. A season of that left me feeling on-edge, unsafe, uncertain about the future, and camped out in tension. A season that exposed the cumulative trauma that has taken place in my lifetime, and the ways I’d avoided addressing those painful memories and the fears that grew from them. A completely different scenario, with so many parallels to this hike in front of me. I question again, how do we move through our fear? One step at a time.

Step one, acknowledge the fear, the trauma, whatever it might be. Don’t suppress it, don’t shame it, don’t judge it. Validate and allow it. Learn to sit with it, curious and compassionate, and let your body adjust to it before taking the next step forward.

Step two, in my own story, was to lift it up in prayer to God’s hands and allow Him to heal the triggers and memories at the root of every fear. This was the hardest work I’ve ever had to do in my life, even more so than working through medical school and residency. But little by little, healing and peace came, and my hike through life became more steady and sure-footed along the way.

Step three, desensitization and disconfirming experiences. From the new, healed path, allow exposures to the things and people that used to frighten you. Little by little, you will see that you are strong enough to confront them well, gently, healthfully. Pursue opportunities that prove the opposite of your fear. If you were told you’re not worthy of love, read what God says about His love for you in Scripture, and be with the people He’s placed in your life who do show you your worth. If you were afraid you couldn’t do X, Y, or Z – try, and be willing to learn from the attempt even if it doesn’t go well. If you are afraid of heights, find a trail that is just a few feet higher than the last one you hiked, and go from there. This is brave and difficult work; it is an evolution that takes a lifetime to grow through. But our hearts and lives come awake before our eyes if we stay patient, committed, and compassionate toward the process.

I realize that the same goes for today, and I start training my mind for the upcoming exposure. I think back on other exposure-laden hikes I have done in the past, and I realize I am prepared for today. I set my aim for the next rock along the path or the next crack in the trail, and once I get there, I choose another one to step towards. Up the many switchbacks I go, weaving and pausing, weaving and pausing, giving myself needed moments to acclimate to the height and the increasingly steep drop-offs. At the same time, I soak in the vastness of the rock formations before me, the canyon below me, the sunny blue sky above me. One stretch of trail faces a beautiful, bright canyon, and I pause to admire the view, allowing myself to look down to the floor of the canyon which I now stand rather high above. Then, carefully, I pick my next target on the trail and keep going.

And as I go, I find myself not only marveling at the views but welcoming the fear that comes with them. Inviting it, but not submitting to it, not allowing fear to overpower my focus. Enjoying and delighting in the process. Because every step I take is proof that I can move beyond the fear rather than be hindered by it. My body shakes at times, and I respond to the trembling with pause and compassion, not shame or reproach. It’s okay to be afraid. We can turn around if we need to or if we do not feel safe. Our worth is not contingent on finishing this hike. Let’s pause here, and there, and here, and just get used to this. You’re doing great! What in the past for me has tended to sound like more critical, militant, and tactical messaging is now lathered with grace and kindness. And that feels so much more healthy. And somehow, fear has become my ally.

I approach Scout’s Landing, where the more intense climbing begins. A single thick chain lines the narrow 1/2-mile of trail that remains, tickling the spine of the rock formation, with some intervening lapses in the continuity of the chain. One. Step. At. A. Time. I climb, I crawl, and sometimes I slip and slide and wiggle my way along. I cast all pride and dignity aside, more focused on safety than on doing this gracefully, and I giggle playfully with other hikers who are doing the same. Very few fellow hikers trek here today, and the ones that do are equally cautious, encouraging, and kind (though admittedly, some look way more comfortable than others, and I watch in awe at how easily some move over the path). One group of climbers from my home state of Minnesota are here climbing together, and we laugh at finding out that we are practically neighbors. With an approximate scramble upward of around 500 feet in elevation, gripping handholds and footholds in the rock, the path gives way to a broad landing with panoramic views of the valley below and the mountains surrounding it. Somehow, I am here. In a place where I never thought I’d be – In fact, in a place where I told myself I wouldn’t or couldn’t possibly go.

This vista is unparalleled. My eyes fill with tears and I am left breathless by the colors and peaks and valleys and shadows filling the landscape in front of me. And as my mind fills up with mental photos, my heart fills up with peace and awe and wonder. I sit and enjoy some packed snacks, visit with two couples also enjoying the cliff today, and lift prayers and praise from the summit where lore tells that angels land. I wish there was a way to stay here forever. The other hikers agree.

After quality time with these views, it is time to make the descent. I slowly climb down, happily, steadily, refreshed, encountering multiple kind faces and impressive vistas along the way. Grateful for the last four hours of reflection, exertion, and learning, I make my way toward my final hike for the day at Watchman Trail. The sun is slowly falling to the horizon line, and it is fixing to be a beauty of a sunset.

Stillwater: Wonder + Simplicity

Today In Brief: A short gallery from a recent staycation in Stillwater, MN. Reflecting on the charm of this town, dreaming with hope and excitement for all that is ahead in this new year, and embracing the two words on my heart for 2021: wonder and simplicity.

48 Hours in the Black Hills and Badlands: Part Two

Rapid City, South Dakota is about an 8 hour drive from the Twin Cities. But if you have the time, it is well worth the trip! I drove in on a Friday, rested that night, then packed the following two days with sights and hiking before driving back to the Cities late Sunday night. The schedule was tight, but that only added to the adventure.

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Another early morning. Another day of waking up before the sun. And I am thrilled about it! From what I understand, Badlands National Park lies about one hour east of where I am in Rapid City right now, and my hope is to catch another South Dakota sunrise there. I quickly run by the hotel’s front desk for a bag of breakfast, check my room again to make sure everything is packed, check out, and hit the road.

It’s a quiet, peaceful drive. I turn on some easy acoustic ballads and make my way east, watching the fading of the stars and the faintest of color changes develop along the horizon. The exit for Wall, South Dakota approaches, and I continue on the one-lane, two-way road cutting through the plains to the north entrance of Badlands National Park. Pronghorn and buffalo graze leisurely as I navigate past the entrance. I make a hasty right hand turn onto Sagecreek Rim Road as I see the earth open up into golden canyons. Parking quickly on the side of the sandy, dirt way, I hop from the car to look out over the rocky crevices. I stand there, jaw agape, staring, stunned. The sun peeks over the horizon and illuminates the canyon with fire, inch by inch.

I watch the spectacle for over an hour, soaking in the sunshine and the views. It’s a chilly morning, but not prohibitively so. I sip my instant coffee and eat my breakfast seated on the rim. I walk the edge of the canyon to see different vantage points, different angles. I am alone, but feel surrounded and held and seen in this moment.

After some time, I return to the car and drive along the main road through the park. I stop intermittently to take photos of the various overlooks, each offering a unique perspective. I see a porcupine scurry along the road, then a big-horn sheep clip-clipping slowly down the shoulder, unbothered by my presence there. I stop at one viewpoint and notice a ‘Beware of Rattlesnakes’ sign – No rattlesnake encounters today, please and thank you. I quickly walk to boardwalk for a brief photo of the view, then run on tip-toes back to my car as if the marshy land was wrought with snakes (even though it wasn’t). As I drive toward the Visitor Center to purchase my pass, the canyons that descend from road level turn into castles extending upward toward the bright blue sky. It is difficult to keep your eyes on the road in front of you when there is so much beauty to witness all around you!

The Visitor Center is quiet, almost uninhabited. I purchase a pass, then peruse a map to decide where to hike today. There are three trails in close proximity to each other – in fact, all three are accessible from a single parking lot – which spark my intrigue. I begin with Notch Trail, the approximate 1.5-mile round trip hike upward to a scenic overlook oriented southward. After a short jaunt at ground level, a climb up a wooden ladder grants you access to an other-worldly hiking experience. After the climb, I notice I am alone on the trail this morning, and surrounded by mansions of a spongy-appearing, clay-consistency, popcorn-like rock called bentonite. I learn later on that this type of earth expands when wet, its pores closing and its surface becoming as slippery as ice with rain or other precipitation. Grateful for a dry, sun-drenched day, I trek along a few minor drop-offs, into and out of a few small slot canyons forming between the towers that soar above my head, and slowly toward the dramatic overlook with broad views of canyon, plain, and sky. I spend some time there, around one hour alone and reflective; seated on the warm, grey clay; happy and content and amazed by the beauty. Then, I slowly retreat to the parking lot and down the next short trail.

Window Trail is a brief trek, around 1/4 mile round trip to an east-facing canyon view. Aptly-named, a ‘window’ in the Badlands Wall frames the canyon beautifully, as if designed to be enjoyed by viewers at the most natural of museums. I am at once a part of the nature scene, and removed from it by the obligation to remain on the boardwalk. A welcoming bench at the end of the boardwalk invites me to sit and breathe in the scene. I wait there a moment, snapping mental photos to keep as memories in my mind, then return to the car to prepare for my final hike of the day. I reload my pack with water and snacks, then proceed.

Just a short walk down the long parking area is the access for Door Trail. This is an approximate 1-mile round-trip path through a ‘door’ in the Badlands Wall. The first 1/8 mile is an easily-accessible boardwalk to a beautiful view of the canyons and spires so characteristic of this park. Thereafter, the trail extends along a path over the canyon itself, so that you are in the heart of the crevices and spires. I follow the numbered yellow posts interspersed along the trail, grateful they are there, as it would be incredibly easy to get lost and disoriented out here! The rugged landscape is warm with sunlight, and as I approach the end of the pathway, I perch myself on an overlook and sit in awe and wonder with the view before me. I take out my hiking journal and jot notes, reflections, prayers, and moments from today that I hope to remember. Then, I simply sit there, breathing deeply, marveling. Nature has a way of making me feel closer and more connected to the heart of God, and more aware of the wild, wonderful diversity and creativity in all He’s created. I love that about getaways like this.

After around an hour, I make my way slowly, carefully back toward the boardwalk and ultimately my car, admiring the bright yellow glow cast across the canyon and the trees by the setting sun. I drive ever-so-sluggishly toward the park exit, stopping to capture a few final photos before the sun rests, and allowing the last warmth from the day to seep into my soul, hopeful that it will help fuel the 7-hour drive ahead of me toward home. The drive is long, but smooth – Full of phone calls to loved ones, a clear night with meteors accompanying the starlight, and a loudly-belted version of The Greatest Showman soundtrack which helps me to stay awake as a I drive deep into the early morning hours of the new day.

Over and over again, I am grateful for this time of adventure and exploration. And over and over again, I would recommend a getaway to this sweet corner of South Dakota, where the buffalo roam and the pronghorns play and the spires astound and the heart is rejuvenated by a special type of wonder and simplicity found only in nature.

48 Hours in the Black Hills and Badlands: Part One

Rapid City, South Dakota is about an 8 hour drive from the Twin Cities. But if you have the time, it is well worth the trip! I drove in on a Friday, rested that night, then packed the following two days with sights and hiking before driving back to the Cities late Sunday night. The schedule was tight, but that only added to the adventure.

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It’s Saturday morning, and I wake up well before sunrise. Mount Rushmore is around 20 minutes away from my lodging in Rapid City, and I want to be there by the time the sun wakes up today. Skies are clear, the stars are out, and just outside the city skirts, I notice the big, barren hills start rolling for miles.

The drive takes me past Keystone, a quaint and small tourist town that is vacant this early in the morning and feels like driving through an old, abandoned western movie set. Soon, and with great anticipation, the weaving roads lead me toward the chiseled faces I’ve never seen before in person. One particular bend in the road takes me up a hill where a scenic overlook frames the sculpture. I pull over and get out of my car just as the sun peeks over the horizon and lights the hills and stone ablaze with orange light. A family of deer graze across the road in front of me. I lift a prayer of thanks, take in the views of the hills, and keep driving.

I park at Mount Rushmore, where very few cars have yet arrived. Armed with my bagged continental breakfast from the hotel and a cup of coffee, I go to share a meal with the Presidents. I walk up to the amphitheater where the view is perfect, visit briefly with some other guests, and sit and gaze and eat and think: If you could ask one of these icons anything, what would it be?

I hike the wooded, guided trail around the park, catching views anywhere I can of the massive faces carved in stone. I imagine what it would have been like to be tasked with the feat, and I learn about the carvers on the educational placards posted as I walk. A few deer meet me on the trail, then casually walk away. I am one of three people hiking the short path this morning, and I take my time.

Afterward, I walk around the visitor center, where plenty of learning is to be done. Most striking to me was the brief summary of American history conveyed in one exhibit. I notice my heart dropping – Our story as a country, though adventuresome and beautiful in some ways, is also filled with brokenness and exploitation. What would it take to truly heal and unite this country? The world? A lot of hard and intentional, but worthwhile work.

I leave the monument refreshed and set my sights for Custer State Park – a premier Black Hills experience, from what I’m told. On the way, I stop at the overlook where you can see Washington’s profile sculpted against the sky, then at a small lake where a family are throwing rocks on the thin ice resulting in the goofiest ‘boing’ sound I’ve ever heard. The drive is stunning. Hills and trees and sky, nothing more, nothing less. I love the feeling of being off-grid.

On the way to Custer, I stop and traverse the grounds of the Crazy Horse Memorial, an intricate and symbolic sculpture that is still in process. The museum on the grounds contains stories and memories of difficulty, adversity, and strength. I read the placards and anecdotes, reflect on the history – a history I cannot fathom – and my heart hurts. I am grateful to be here. To learn and become more aware. To examine my own life and heart, and to question how to live in light of the complexity, brokenness and beauty woven through the story of humanity.

I drive the remainder of the way to Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, the hub from which many beautiful, wooded trails thread through the Black Hills. I circle the pristine, lightly frozen lake, surrounded by mounds of rock like warriors protecting it, and stand in awe. I meet a few other travelers (some with sweet puppies that I get to greet!), happy-heartedly enjoying the beautiful day and the stunning environs. I then hike along two different trails – Harney Peak Trail followed by Little Devil’s Tower Trail – not to trail’ s end, but just to the point that my knee (which is still recovering from a surgery four weeks ago) can tolerate. The paths are slick with ice, but worth the extra time it takes to find your footing. I find caves and sacred views along the way that take my breath away, encountering very few travelers as I go. This gives the woods a sense of solitude and peace. If I ever come back to this lake, these are two trails I will most certainly continue along.

As I trace my steps back along Little Devil’s Tower trail to my car, a deer meets me on the path. Grazing, unthreatened, and graceful. We stare at each other, then slowly work our way around each other, sure not to disturb one another’s space. I arrive at my car, excited for the next leg of the adventure today.

Wind Cave National Park, my final stop for the day, is a 30-minute drive from Sylvan Lake. Under normal circumstances, the park boasts scenic tours of beautiful, tunneled caves, which have been suspended during the pandemic. I find my way through the rolling plains of the park to the Visitor Center, where a kind park ranger meets me outside and asks if I have any questions. I ask for a trail recommendation with low mileage, acknowledging that my knee is on the achy side, that it is almost sunset, and that only a brief hike is possible at this point. He shares about Rankin’ Ridge Trail, a 1-mile loop with a fantastic lookout from a fire tower atop a hill, cautioning that a hurried step is prudent, since the roads through the park get very dark and are oft-traversed by wildlife after sunset. I start the short drive to the trailhead, encountering hearty bison along the road, and marveling at the color changes that are unfolding in the sky.

I pull up to the trailhead for Rankin’ Ridge Trail, and to my delight, I am the only car in the small lot. I start on the northbound path which ascends a steep hill through the woods, stopping every few steps to gaze at the views before me. Of all the sights today, this is fixing to be the most memorable. Pinks and yellows and oranges and blues and purples all evolve before my eyes, tickling the plains below and treetops above with soft color. My brain almost can’t compute what is in front of me – I have never seen such a palette in the sky before.

I continue my climb, and the path breaks east, then south. The woods are on my right, and to my left is a rolling, expansive, powerful, breathtaking (I could go on with the wonderful adjectives) landscape of hills and trees and grazing bison down below. I feel removed from it all, and also a part of it all, and altogether grateful for this moment. And the peace and beauty are so overwhelming, I just stand there awestruck. Then, I start singing. One of my favorite hymns from childhood:

Oh Lord my God, when I in awesome wonder consider all the works Thy hands have made. I see the stars, I hear the rolling thunder; Thy power throughout the universe displayed. Then sings my soul, my Savior God to Thee. How great Thou art. How great Thou art. Then sings my soul, my Savior God to Thee. How great Thou art. How great Thou art.

I ever-so-slowly keep walking, drinking in the sunset and the views. All is quiet and static, like a still-life painting, but somehow the shifting, vibrant sky breathes the landscape to life as its colors wash over the canvas. As the sun sets behind me, I start making my way further south down the hilly loop, then up the final stretch north back to my car. I make the drive back to my lodging in utter awe, meeting more bison on the road, weaving through the dark, black hills framed by a navy sky filled with stars, and unbelieving of the beauty and wonder that today held.

Tomorrow will bring a day of hiking in the Badlands. But before I get there, I reflect more and more on today. And I am grateful.