Captivated Me

Rapid City, South Dakota is about an 8 hour drive from the Twin Cities. But if you have the time, it is well worth the trip! I drove in on a Friday, rested that night, then packed the following two days with sights and hiking before driving back to the Cities late Sunday night. The schedule was tight, but that only added to the adventure.

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Another early morning. Another day of waking up before the sun. And I am thrilled about it! From what I understand, Badlands National Park lies about one hour east of where I am in Rapid City right now, and my hope is to catch another South Dakota sunrise there. I quickly run by the hotel’s front desk for a bag of breakfast, check my room again to make sure everything is packed, check out, and hit the road.

It’s a quiet, peaceful drive. I turn on some easy acoustic ballads and make my way east, watching the fading of the stars and the faintest of color changes develop along the horizon. The exit for Wall, South Dakota approaches, and I continue on the one-lane, two-way road cutting through the plains to the north entrance of Badlands National Park. Pronghorn and buffalo graze leisurely as I navigate past the entrance. I make a hasty right hand turn onto Sagecreek Rim Road as I see the earth open up into golden canyons. Parking quickly on the side of the sandy, dirt way, I hop from the car to look out over the rocky crevices. I stand there, jaw agape, staring, stunned. The sun peeks over the horizon and illuminates the canyon with fire, inch by inch.

I watch the spectacle for over an hour, soaking in the sunshine and the views. It’s a chilly morning, but not prohibitively so. I sip my instant coffee and eat my breakfast seated on the rim. I walk the edge of the canyon to see different vantage points, different angles. I am alone, but feel surrounded and held and seen in this moment.

After some time, I return to the car and drive along the main road through the park. I stop intermittently to take photos of the various overlooks, each offering a unique perspective. I see a porcupine scurry along the road, then a big-horn sheep clip-clipping slowly down the shoulder, unbothered by my presence there. I stop at one viewpoint and notice a ‘Beware of Rattlesnakes’ sign – No rattlesnake encounters today, please and thank you. I quickly walk to boardwalk for a brief photo of the view, then run on tip-toes back to my car as if the marshy land was wrought with snakes (even though it wasn’t). As I drive toward the Visitor Center to purchase my pass, the canyons that descend from road level turn into castles extending upward toward the bright blue sky. It is difficult to keep your eyes on the road in front of you when there is so much beauty to witness all around you!

The Visitor Center is quiet, almost uninhabited. I purchase a pass, then peruse a map to decide where to hike today. There are three trails in close proximity to each other – in fact, all three are accessible from a single parking lot – which spark my intrigue. I begin with Notch Trail, the approximate 1.5-mile round trip hike upward to a scenic overlook oriented southward. After a short jaunt at ground level, a climb up a wooden ladder grants you access to an other-worldly hiking experience. After the climb, I notice I am alone on the trail this morning, and surrounded by mansions of a spongy-appearing, clay-consistency, popcorn-like rock called bentonite. I learn later on that this type of earth expands when wet, its pores closing and its surface becoming as slippery as ice with rain or other precipitation. Grateful for a dry, sun-drenched day, I trek along a few minor drop-offs, into and out of a few small slot canyons forming between the towers that soar above my head, and slowly toward the dramatic overlook with broad views of canyon, plain, and sky. I spend some time there, around one hour alone and reflective; seated on the warm, grey clay; happy and content and amazed by the beauty. Then, I slowly retreat to the parking lot and down the next short trail.

Window Trail is a brief trek, around 1/4 mile round trip to an east-facing canyon view. Aptly-named, a ‘window’ in the Badlands Wall frames the canyon beautifully, as if designed to be enjoyed by viewers at the most natural of museums. I am at once a part of the nature scene, and removed from it by the obligation to remain on the boardwalk. A welcoming bench at the end of the boardwalk invites me to sit and breathe in the scene. I wait there a moment, snapping mental photos to keep as memories in my mind, then return to the car to prepare for my final hike of the day. I reload my pack with water and snacks, then proceed.

Just a short walk down the long parking area is the access for Door Trail. This is an approximate 1-mile round-trip path through a ‘door’ in the Badlands Wall. The first 1/8 mile is an easily-accessible boardwalk to a beautiful view of the canyons and spires so characteristic of this park. Thereafter, the trail extends along a path over the canyon itself, so that you are in the heart of the crevices and spires. I follow the numbered yellow posts interspersed along the trail, grateful they are there, as it would be incredibly easy to get lost and disoriented out here! The rugged landscape is warm with sunlight, and as I approach the end of the pathway, I perch myself on an overlook and sit in awe and wonder with the view before me. I take out my hiking journal and jot notes, reflections, prayers, and moments from today that I hope to remember. Then, I simply sit there, breathing deeply, marveling. Nature has a way of making me feel closer and more connected to the heart of God, and more aware of the wild, wonderful diversity and creativity in all He’s created. I love that about getaways like this.

After around an hour, I make my way slowly, carefully back toward the boardwalk and ultimately my car, admiring the bright yellow glow cast across the canyon and the trees by the setting sun. I drive ever-so-sluggishly toward the park exit, stopping to capture a few final photos before the sun rests, and allowing the last warmth from the day to seep into my soul, hopeful that it will help fuel the 7-hour drive ahead of me toward home. The drive is long, but smooth – Full of phone calls to loved ones, a clear night with meteors accompanying the starlight, and a loudly-belted version of The Greatest Showman soundtrack which helps me to stay awake as a I drive deep into the early morning hours of the new day.

Over and over again, I am grateful for this time of adventure and exploration. And over and over again, I would recommend a getaway to this sweet corner of South Dakota, where the buffalo roam and the pronghorns play and the spires astound and the heart is rejuvenated by a special type of wonder and simplicity found only in nature.